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Sweetwater
Dam that is! The steam motor road, named National City & Otay
Railway, began operating 60-Mile Excursions for a fare of One
Dollar over its
entire system in 1888 and they became very popular attractions
for many
years.
"One of the
pleasantest jaunts I ever enjoyed in Southern California was a
trip to the sleepy old Mexican town of Tia Juana (now spelled
Tijuana). The
day was bright and cloudless."
The N. C.
&. O. depot was near the foot of Fifth Street, now Avenue,
in San
Diego. For motive power the road had originally two steam dummies
of 0-4-2
wheel arrangement, built by Fulton Iron Works in San Francisco,
four Saddle
Tank engines of the same wheel type, built by the Porter Company
in
Pittsburgh, Pa., and "the big engine", a Porter Saddle Tank 0-6-0
(rebuilt to
0-6-2) used for freight service. Numbers 3, 4 and 5, the regular
passenger
engines, weighed a mere 28,000 pounds on the driving wheels. The
engines
were fitted with "cow-catchers" at each end so that they did not
have to be
turned around. All were coal burners and there was an exuberant
profusion
of smoke and cinders.
One of the
latter locomotives was waiting with a train of three or four
coaches of fair size with open platforms, link-and-pin couplings
and no air
brakes. Open cars with single transverse benches were used when
the
weather warranted. The N. C. & O track was in the north side
of L Street,
while the Coronado Railroad's occupied the south side.
"We left
at 9 o'clock in the morning on the excursion train which was filled
with sightseers."
The route
was east on L Street to 13th Street, turning south into what is
now
Newton Avenue. At that time the area was entirely unimproved.
The track
was ballasted and planked and bridges carried the rails over several
sloughs
from San Diego Bay. (The original line had run out Harrison Avenue.)
Out
Newton the train jogged along to just beyond 32nd Street. There
it curved to
the right, descended into Chollas Valley "and soon we were speeding
over
the low, tide-washed land which separates San Diego from National
City."
"As we pass
through that town of 1,400 people, we find the same air of
carelessness and attention which marks all Southern California
towns.
National City is very much scattered and from the Steele Block
(4.2 miles, all
distances in figures are from San Diego, on the northwest corner
of National
Avenue and 8th Street. It still stands, 1962, though somewhat
modernized.) to
Terrace is a distance of three miles (due to the fact that the
route swings
west on 12th Street to Eighth, now Cleveland Avenue in order to
traverse the
old section of the town, thence east out 24th Street. The Company's
Shops
and Round House are located on 24th St. at Seventh Ave.) Near
Terrace we
pass the beautiful home of Mr. W. C. Kimball, one of the pioneers
of the
region (and founders of National City)......Beyond are some handsome
residences. All this section is planted with young orange trees...."
"Now we descend
into Sweetwater Valley (cross the river to Sweetwater
Junction - 7.6 miles) and, after mounting a grade which brings
into play all the
power of the locomotive, we are in Chula Vista, one of the most
favored spots
in this favored land. From this gently sloping tract we look off
upon the
peerless bay, sleeping beneath the summer sun. Beyond are the
hazy
outlines of the Coronado Islands belonging to Mexico. To the east
we see the
Cuyamaca Mountains, while only five miles away rises the blue
heights of San
Miguel. Far away in the south, rising clear from the hills around
it, is Table
Mountain, so-called from its flat-topped appearance. Though apparently
so
near it is 40 miles below the Mexican line."
"All around
us are orange trees, pleasant homes and grounds and flowers.....
Five years ago it was a desert of prickly pear and sage brush....."
"After passing
(south on Third Avenue through Chula Vista) we came to an
uncultivated section and after a mile or so of this, we begin
to see on either
side great fields of wheat. Grain growing has increased in importance
in the
last year.."
"We pass
the town of Otay (12.2 miles) and see the large brick building
once
occupied (1890) by the Otay Watch Company. For a time this town
enjoyed
considerable prosperity from the presence of the large number
of watch
factory employees..... Large flocks of sheep are pastured in the
upper
portion (of Otay Valley) and much wine of excellent quality is
made by the
Italians who own vineyards here."
The train
then crossed Otay River and climbed the south bank to what is
now
Palm City, proceeding due south to Tia Juana Junction near Nestor
Post
Office, 14.4 miles. There it turned west, then south to the village
of Oneonta,
where an exquisite view of Tia Juana River Valley greeted the
tourists'
smoke-filled eyes.
Grading had
been started and a contract reportedly had been let for an
extension of the motor road to the south, crossing the river and
curving west
to "International City", a subdivision laid out by the visionary
William H. (Billy)
Carlson and his partner, Higgins, near the initial monument marking
the
boundary between California, U.S.A. and Baja California, Mexico.
Border
Field is now located there. Like most all of Billy's projects,
it fizzled.
The train
probably backed to the Junction and headed for Tia Juana, "the
last
town in Southern California (18.5 miles). The boundary line passes
through it
and cuts it in two, the American half consisting of a single street
of frame
buildings and a few scattered houses. The American part has a
live air but
the Mexican part is the deadest place imaginable." (Note: Probably
the
California town would have looked just as dead except that, due
to the floods
in 1891, the old town was washed out and the remaining buildings
were
moved to higher ground near the border.)
"We join
a file of tourists and put ourselves in a foreign country as soon
as
possible. The houses here are made of mud and most of the residents
look as
if they were. The only respectable persons seem to be the Custom
Officers
and the proprietor of a curio shop, who we fancy, must live on
the American
side and go down to the town when he knows the tourists are coming."
"At the end
of a straggling street is a small adobe church which, with its
bell
mounted on a post near the front door, is picturesque. Here the
itinerant
friar, who supplies the mission churches of Lower California,
keeps his
library and here he comes at stated intervals to say mass."
"On our return",
we again pass through Otay and Chula Vista.
(Editor Bice
overlooked the all-important subject of eats. When the 60-mile
excursions were started, there was a new hotel at Oneonta and
the southerly
routings were reversed to go to Tia Juana first and then to Oneonta
for lunch.
After the hotel closed down, the train returned to National City
and the
tourists' appetites were appeased at Olivewood, the residence
of Warren
Kimball, through whose efforts the California Southern Rail Road,
now Santa
Fe, was constructed from National City to Barstow, or at the International
Hotel in the Old Town.)
Retracing
the clickety-clicks to Sweetwater Junction, "we branch off once
more", turning east up the valley. Farming communities enroute
include:
Munger's Ranch, Bonita, Bonnie Brae and Sunnyside. (In 1895, in
the river
bottom between Hungers and Bonita, an attractive picnic spot was
known as
Linwood Grove.) Passing La Presa Junction, later called Quarry
Junction, we
continue to the right "to visit the Sweetwater Dam, one of the
greatest
irrigating works in the west. The dam is placed in a narrow, deep
gorge and
is a splendid structure of solid masonry, costing $296,000. It
completely
shuts off the flow of the Sweetwater River and commands an area
of 300
acres." The rails ended near the base of the dam, 13.6 miles.
The construction
of the dam was completed in 1888. It was of gravity arch
design, 80 feet high. The capacity was 6,000,000,000 gallons.
It was claimed
to be the highest in the United States and was heralded as one
of the
wonders of the world. When greater storage volume became necessary,
an
addition raised the level ten feet in 1896. About that time a
station was
established on the La Presa Branch so that the tourists would
not have to
scale the heights. The crest of the dam was increased to a height
of 110 feet
in 1910. The upper portion at the north end failed in the flood
of 1916.
The dam,
as well as the railway, was built by The San Diego Land &
Town
Company, a subsidiary corporation of the Atchison, Topeka &
Santa Fe
Railroad Company. The organization was formed for the purpose
of improving
and disposing of the lands donated by the people of National City
and San
Diego to subsidize the construction of the California Southern
Rail Road. The
Kimball Brothers had given more than 10,000 acres of their Rancho
de la
Nacion, expecting that National City would be made the Pacific
Coast
Terminus of the Santa Fe Route.
The editor
failed to mention the side trip La Presa, which was part of the
60-Mile schedule. Again the train backed to the Junction, then
crossed the
Sweetwater River and climbed up the north bank until the Spring
Valley
Canyon was reached. Here the scenery "rivals" that of the Denver
& Rio
Grande Railroad in Colorado - for a short distance. The train
crosses the
gorge on a deck type truss bridge of steel and wood, 70 feet above
the creek
bed and spanning 110 feet. It was designed to carry the loads
of engines
weighing 80 tons. Just beyond the bridge, the station was established
and a
pathway was cut to reach the top of the dam. The railroad continues
east
through deep cuts. Beyond, the track is very crooked, winding
around the
foothills to avoid having to climb a heavy grade. The curvatures
make an
equivalent of four complete circles, and the rails terminate in
the townsite of
La Presa, 15.5 miles. From that point, stage coaches carried passengers
to
El Cajon. Fruit, olives and other local products, including bottled
mineral
water, were loaded for shipment from that station. Materials for
the
construction of the Janal or Otay Dams were hauled by teams from
La Presa
to the sites.
"But the
train is moving. We take our seats once more and soon we are in
San Diego again."
Before reaching
the terminal and after climbing the grade on L Street from
12th to 11th Streets, it was the usual practice to stop the train,
a brakeman
would walk ahead and open the switch to a siding. Then a "drop"
or "flying
switch" was made. The engineer starts the train ahead, throws
the reverse
lever over to bunch the slack, the conductor pulls the coupling
pin behind the
engine, the engineer returns the lever and yanks open the throttle.
The
engine jumps ahead like a scared jack rabbit, takes the switch
and glides into
the sidetrack. The brakeman closes the switch and the train rolls
down the
main line. Then the engine backs out, runs ahead to couple with
the cars and
pushes them to the depot. And all is set for the return to National
City.
Flying switches
are dangerous, even with freight cars only. Sometimes the
brakeman may not throw the switch over in time, the engine may
derail at the
switch or the frog or, as happened on the Coronado Railroad at
the ferry
landing, no one was at the car brakes. It was rough on the rolling
stock and
the bumping post, not to mention the passengers.
What a trip
the 60-Mile Excursion would be for rail-fans! Technical nnotations
by Richard V. Dodge
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